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I need(ed) a 7A 32V Buss slow-blow fuse... Could only find a 7A 250V.
Am I doing a bad, dangerous thing? I know for capacitors, as long as it's at least the voltage needed, or higher, it's good-to-go, but am only kinda sure that this is ok...?
It's on the power supply of my new-to-me Defender. Position F2. Schematics appears to call out for a 7ASB fuse, and it's in the 5V section, so is it safe to assume I'm really looking for a 5V 7A fuse? (Which probably doesn't even exist)
It had a (blown) 32V 7A in it. I put the 250V 7A in it, and the game started right up, making me the happiest numbskull ever. But I'm not super-comfortable knowing the voltage for the fuse is that far off...
Am I ok? Or do I need to find another fuse? Thanks in advance. |
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Jawhn
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Originally Posted by: jawhn  I need(ed) a 7A 32V Buss slow-blow fuse... Could only find a 7A 250V.
Am I doing a bad, dangerous thing? I know for capacitors, as long as it's at least the voltage needed, or higher, it's good-to-go, but am only kinda sure that this is ok...?
It's on the power supply of my new-to-me Defender. Position F2. Schematics appears to call out for a 7ASB fuse, and it's in the 5V section, so is it safe to assume I'm really looking for a 5V 7A fuse? (Which probably doesn't even exist)
It had a (blown) 32V 7A in it. I put the 250V 7A in it, and the game started right up, making me the happiest numbskull ever. But I'm not super-comfortable knowing the voltage for the fuse is that far off...
Am I ok? Or do I need to find another fuse? Thanks in advance. You should be fine. The AMPs are more important. |
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Arizona Collectors, Registered, Arcade/Repair Party Invitees Joined: 11/29/2012(UTC) Posts: 331 Location: 85015 Thanks: 19 times
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Originally Posted by: Arcadenut You should be fine. The AMPs are more important. That's what I thought/hoped... But 250 vs. 5 seemed like a pretty HUGE difference. Thanks mang! |
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Jawhn
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Did you look at the schematic? 32v sounds incorrect, may have been replaced with the wrong one along the way.. |
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Originally Posted by: Krajkerjac Did you look at the schematic? 32v sounds incorrect, may have been replaced with the wrong one along the way.. I did. It's for the 5V section, and is looking for a 7A slow-blow. Couldn't find one, so 250V had to do... I should probably check Bob's site and get the correct thing, though. It's playing great, now. Man, I suck at Defender... |
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Jawhn
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Originally Posted by: jawhn Originally Posted by: Krajkerjac Did you look at the schematic? 32v sounds incorrect, may have been replaced with the wrong one along the way.. I did. It's for the 5V section, and is looking for a 7A slow-blow. Couldn't find one, so 250V had to do... I should probably check Bob's site and get the correct thing, though. It's playing great, now. Man, I suck at Defender... Not sure where you're seeing 5V at, but the schematics show at least 21V at F2. So you can replace it with a 32V if you want, but if the 250V is cheaper, I would go with that. |
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Arizona Collectors, Registered, Arcade/Repair Party Invitees Joined: 11/29/2012(UTC) Posts: 331 Location: 85015 Thanks: 19 times
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Originally Posted by: Arcadenut Not sure where you're seeing 5V at, but the schematics show at least 21V at F2. So you can replace it with a 32V if you want, but if the 250V is cheaper, I would go with that. Hmmm... I swear I saw 5V section of power supply leading to F2. Is there only 1 F2? |
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Jawhn
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Originally Posted by: jawhn Originally Posted by: Arcadenut Not sure where you're seeing 5V at, but the schematics show at least 21V at F2. So you can replace it with a 32V if you want, but if the 250V is cheaper, I would go with that. Hmmm... I swear I saw 5V section of power supply leading to F2. Is there only 1 F2? I think I see your confusion. The input side of the fuse F2 is about 22V AC, which is then put into a bridge rectifier BR1, which then converts that to DC, which is then fed into IC1, where it is regulated down to +5V. There is a page (page 22 of the pdf) in the manual (Defender Later PCB drawing set), that makes it look like it's only 5V, but it's actually higher since you have to look at what is being put into the Power supply, and not what you get out of it. Edited by user Thursday, December 13, 2012 2:44:17 AM(UTC)
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 1 user thanked Arcadenut for this useful post.
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